PlanetEye

Sunday, May 18th, 2008

El Drugstore, Colonia del Sacramento

Brendan

The Global Nomad

A culinary highlight of Colonia is a dinner at El Drugstore Restaurant. We couldn’t turn down the opportunity to eat inside the antique car parked on the street outside, complete with a little table and a cushion where the driver’s seat should be. Novelty aside, the food was excellent, and from the extremely satisfied feedback from other diners, it seems this is the norm.

The wall outside is wallpapered with glowing reviews in several languages, and the menu is extensive, rambling and creative—both in design and content. Although somewhat confusing, wading through the 20 or so pages was part of the fun; besides, nothing in Colonia is ever in a hurry. The fondue was excellent and suitably boozy for my tastes, and the quirky menu runs the gamut from sushi to chow mein to pallella—which was excellent.

There is often live music under the trees, where patio tables spill out onto the cobblestone corner; the night we dined in the old Ford the guitarist who serenaded diners was shockingly good (coming from an appreciative guitarist!)

 El Drugstore
On the corner of the Plaza de Armas, facing the Iglesia Matriz
Vasconcellos 179. 052/25241 

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• Posted in  Eating
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Thursday, May 15th, 2008

Colonia, Uruguay

Brendan

The Global Nomad

Just a few hours’ bus from Montevideo or short speed ferry from Buenos Aires, the Uruguayan UNESCO World Heritage town of Colonia del Sacramento lives in a tranquil time warp. A quiet town of cafés and cobblestone streets, crumbling ramparts and a siesta that seems to encompass most of the day, Colonia is a relaxing foil to the bustle and noise of the two nearby capital cities. A photographer’s dream, the town’s World Heritage status has led to an impeccable restoration and maintenance that stands in stark contrast to the bleak, soot-covered state of Montevideo’s historic quarter.

If travelling is wearing you down a little, take a night or two to recharge in Colonia. Sure, there isn’t much to do, but I can’t think of a better way to relax than by strolling around the ancient traffic-free laneways, stopping for coffees at the many street cafes.

Speed ferries, run by Buquebus, leave from Buenos Aires regularly and take 1 hour ($40; there is also a slower, cheaper option: 3 hours, $30); buses from Montevideo take less than three hours and cost about $10.

www.buquebus.com
www.trescruces.com.uy

• Posted in  City Review
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Monday, May 12th, 2008

Destination: Uruguay

Brendan

The Global Nomad

Beaches, beaches, beaches…and beef. With 500km of beach on three sides and an interior packed with cattle farms, sometimes it seems these are Uruguay’s only offerings. Sandwiched between Brazil and Argentina, tiny, progressive Uruguay has acted as more than just a physical buffer between the two South American behemoths. Dominated by sophisticated Montevideo, home to half the population, Uruguay represents a symbolic compromise: the best of both countries, with the sum larger than the parts. Today Uruguay’s fortunes—and prices—are chained to its two giant neighbours, which is good news for the traveller given the recent economic woes of both.

A short hop from Buenos Aires, the premier beach town of Punta del Este draws Argentina’s glitterati each summer for a seemingly endless paparazzi beach party. It may be full of tourists, but they’re all beautiful, and at least they’re all from Argentina.

• Posted in  Destination Overview
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