PlanetEye

Tuesday, April 29th, 2008

The Favela: Rocinha, City of God

Brendan

The Global Nomad

It may seem a strange suggestion to spend an afternoon in a slum. How about one of the largest slums in the world?

Favelas, the slum areas of Brazil, dot the countryside – in fact, there are 350 of these impromptu villages in Brazil, many of them within Rio’s city limits. Run by (often rival) drug lords and gangs, the favelas are a side of Brazil few tourists venture into. Going to visit a place like this may seem like madness, but it can be both educational and safe. Just don’t go on your own….

We choose to visit Rocinha, the largest favela in Latin America, a makeshift city within a city. Made famous by the movie City of God, Rocinha (ho-SEE-nya) is home to 200 000 cariocas (residents of Rio de Janeiro). Although they pay no taxes and have only basic services, the labour that Rocinha and Brazil’s other favelas supply keeps the city’s buildings clean, hotels staffed and clothes cleaned.

The sights, sounds and smells of this community are an in-your-face reminder that there are no government services here– no electrical power, no water, no police, no sewage systems and no garbage removal. Fifty-five percent of the kids between the ages of 4-13 attend the four schools in the favela – many of the rest are “put to work”, begging on the streets of Rio. Two hospitals here attempt to service the needs of this huge community, suffering from ailments many developed countries haven’t seen in decades.

A tour through one of Rio’s favelas is a fascinating experience. There are several outfits that will take you, prices are reasonable and most if not all have ties to the community. We chose Be a Local, and they provided a well-run, educational trip. (The initial ride to the top of the favela on the back of a motorbike was either a highlight or a shock, depending on your personality). The organization supports a daycare in Rocinha, and also offers tours to football games and the like.

Go see the other side of Rio, bring your camera and an open mind. Oh, and don’t be scared—you’re likely safer in the favela than outside. In the words of one guide “the same guy who will steal your wallet on Copacabana beach won’t touch you in here—the gangs rule this place with an iron fist.”

Be A Local
bealocal.com

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