PlanetEye

Wednesday, February 20th, 2008

Dominical, Costa Rica

Brendan

The Global Nomad

So my new favourite town in Costa Rica is Dominical, about halfway between Manuel Antonio/Quepos and the Osa Peninsula. It has killer surfing—but so do many places in Costa Rica. The reason I like it so much is more about atmosphere—there is a palpable sense of civic pride, the town is walkable, there’s a good balance of restaurants, bars and stuff to do… the beach is long and beautiful – and uncrowded. Best of all, there is a complete absence of the brutal attitude that seems standard issue in places like Tamarindo. Maybe it’s because these people have had to make more of an effort to get here (2 or 3 hours on an as-yet bumpy dirt road from Quepos).

One of my favourite finds: Poco a Poco café. Laid back in the extreme, it’s a great place for breakfast that stretches into the middle of the day. Sit, chat, read, or bring a laptop and poach the signal from the internet café next door

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Sunday, February 17th, 2008

Surf’s Up, Hombre

Brendan

The Global Nomad

Let me be clear about one thing: I am not a surfer. Surfers are a special breed—impossibly tanned, blessed with an uncanny ability to function with their shorts pulled half down, and sporting physiques that are proof that spending time in a gym isn’t always the best way to get six pack abs and killer shoulders.

The west coast of Costa Rica has been surfing central since long before the resorts and canopy tours arrived, so what can be more Costa Rican than learning how to surf? Whether it’s because you want the chiselled abs or just because, well, that’s what you do here, there are a zillion dudes up and down the coast who are happy to help you get a jump on your first wave.

If you’ve never surfed before but think lessons are for wusses, a piece of advice: swallow the 35 bucks and get a lesson. You’ll still be in a world of pain, but with a little luck and coordination it will only last a week instead of a month.

Here are a few great places to learn to surf on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica.

Tamarindo, Guanacaste. With a busy nightlife and more tattoos per capita than anywhere outside a biker gang, Tamarindo isn’t a place to find your own beach (small boats can take you out to those once you’re ready). It gets less unspoiled by the year, but there are ATMs, lots of people to party with, great restaurants and a beautiful beach, even if you do have to share it. Plus, from Nov to Feb giant leatherback turtles nest on nearby Playa Grande.

Malpais/Santa Teresa, Nicoya Peninsula. Malpais is a hardcore surfer’s mecca, while the next beach up, Santa Teresa, has more chilled waves that are great for beginners. Just be ready to surf…and not much else. Nightlife is limited and the population is very spread out over the long beaches, so this one is best if you bring your own vehicle, preferably a 4X4. Farther south around the peninsula, Montezuma has even smaller waves where beginners will be even happier.

Jaco. Crass, rife with hookers, drugs, and college kids on break. If that’s your thing, hey, fill yer boots. (Oh, and it’s pronounced “ ha-KO.”) The next beach south, Playa Hermosa (“beautiful”), earned its name. Long, straight and beautiful, without most of the commercial development that keeps some people away from Jaco.

Dominical. My favourite. South of Manuel Antonio and before the Osa Peninsula, Dominical is just far enough out of the way that many stop before they get this far. A surprise to me, Dominical has a fun, laid-back community, great beaches, and it’s all walkable.

Lastly: remember, surfers never just shake hands. Remember: slide and punch. You’ll know what I mean….

Photo credit for surfer: Latitude 10

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