PlanetEye

Monday, May 12th, 2008

Destination: Uruguay

Brendan

The Global Nomad

Beaches, beaches, beaches…and beef. With 500km of beach on three sides and an interior packed with cattle farms, sometimes it seems these are Uruguay’s only offerings. Sandwiched between Brazil and Argentina, tiny, progressive Uruguay has acted as more than just a physical buffer between the two South American behemoths. Dominated by sophisticated Montevideo, home to half the population, Uruguay represents a symbolic compromise: the best of both countries, with the sum larger than the parts. Today Uruguay’s fortunes—and prices—are chained to its two giant neighbours, which is good news for the traveller given the recent economic woes of both.

A short hop from Buenos Aires, the premier beach town of Punta del Este draws Argentina’s glitterati each summer for a seemingly endless paparazzi beach party. It may be full of tourists, but they’re all beautiful, and at least they’re all from Argentina.

• Posted in  Destination Overview, Uncategorized
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Saturday, May 10th, 2008

Iguassu - the video

Brendan

The Global Nomad

check it out.

• Posted in  Adventure, Nature, Uncategorized
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Tuesday, May 6th, 2008

Paraty, world heritage town and source of excellent fire water

Brendan

The Global Nomad

The impeccably restored colonial town of Paraty (pah-rah-chee), several hours’ drive south of Rio, is well worth a few days’ visit. The end of the Royal Road that carried the riches of Brazil’s mines to the coast, Paraty was stuck in a kind of time warp until only recently, owing to the fact that the modern coastal highway bypassed the town.

Today it is a tasteful colonial (and UNESCO World Heritage) town in the vein of Antigua, Guatemala or San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, attracting mostly an artistic community and tourists. I swear Paraty has more ateliers per capita than any place on the planet.

Paraty is a mellow, subdued town, and there isn’t a whole lot of night life outside of Saturday night at the disco. However there are a ton of great restaurants (most with live music), a participatory cooking school-cum-restaurant, a well-respected puppet theatre (no, that is not a tongue in cheek joke), and some really charming hotels and B&Bs in restored colonial buildings. A river runs along one side of the town and the cobblestone streets closest to the sea flood at high tide, making it picturesque—a photographer’s dream. As long as it isn’t raining. Add some great shopping (so my girlfriend said) and you have a great recipe for a romantic 3-day getaway.

Paraty is well-known for two other things: booze, and booze cruises. Some of the county’s best cachaça (see last post) is made in the area, and there are stores stocked to ceiling around town with the stuff. The pretty harbour is filled with schooners (although you won’t see many sails) and in the high season they are filled with crowds who come to drink, tan and cruise the area’s pristine coves and shores. Caipirinha anyone?

• Posted in  City Review, Uncategorized
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Friday, May 2nd, 2008

Caipirinhas and Cachaça, vol. 2

Brendan

The Global Nomad

Like cane liquor around the world, Brazil’s cachaça comes in all strengths and qualities, depending on the goals and skill of the distiller.

In my extensive research I have identified three main varieties:

1) Fine crafted, barrel-aged to a mellow smoothness. A pleasure to drink, high-grade cachaça comes in beautiful bottles and packaging, and each has its own unique character like a single malt scotch or high-grade tequila. Drink neat. This was the kind my house guest and his drunk friends quaffed back one night without realising they couldn’t just nip down to the liquor store to replace the bottle.

2) Nice, drinkable and reasonably smooth. Your everyday cachaça (if that’s your style). Typically these are best mixed, especially in a Caipirinha. (see earlier post)

3) OH GOD IT BURNS!! Best saved as a backup fuel for running the engine of your fishing boat, or say, removing unwanted skin.

I recommend either 1 or 2. Oh, and for the record, although they are similar, rum is made from sugar cane molasses, whereas cachaça is made from pure sugar cane juice, among other subtle differences.

• Posted in  Culture, Drinking, Partying, Uncategorized
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Tuesday, April 29th, 2008

The Favela: Rocinha, City of God

Brendan

The Global Nomad

It may seem a strange suggestion to spend an afternoon in a slum. How about one of the largest slums in the world?

Favelas, the slum areas of Brazil, dot the countryside – in fact, there are 350 of these impromptu villages in Brazil, many of them within Rio’s city limits. Run by (often rival) drug lords and gangs, the favelas are a side of Brazil few tourists venture into. Going to visit a place like this may seem like madness, but it can be both educational and safe. Just don’t go on your own….

We choose to visit Rocinha, the largest favela in Latin America, a makeshift city within a city. Made famous by the movie City of God, Rocinha (ho-SEE-nya) is home to 200 000 cariocas (residents of Rio de Janeiro). Although they pay no taxes and have only basic services, the labour that Rocinha and Brazil’s other favelas supply keeps the city’s buildings clean, hotels staffed and clothes cleaned.

The sights, sounds and smells of this community are an in-your-face reminder that there are no government services here– no electrical power, no water, no police, no sewage systems and no garbage removal. Fifty-five percent of the kids between the ages of 4-13 attend the four schools in the favela – many of the rest are “put to work”, begging on the streets of Rio. Two hospitals here attempt to service the needs of this huge community, suffering from ailments many developed countries haven’t seen in decades.

A tour through one of Rio’s favelas is a fascinating experience. There are several outfits that will take you, prices are reasonable and most if not all have ties to the community. We chose Be a Local, and they provided a well-run, educational trip. (The initial ride to the top of the favela on the back of a motorbike was either a highlight or a shock, depending on your personality). The organization supports a daycare in Rocinha, and also offers tours to football games and the like.

Go see the other side of Rio, bring your camera and an open mind. Oh, and don’t be scared—you’re likely safer in the favela than outside. In the words of one guide “the same guy who will steal your wallet on Copacabana beach won’t touch you in here—the gangs rule this place with an iron fist.”

Be A Local
bealocal.com 

• Posted in  Culture, Uncategorized
• 1 Comment »

Sunday, April 27th, 2008

Hang gliding Rio - the video

Brendan

The Global Nomad

Had some issues uploading video earlier but they seem to be solved now. Check it out!

• Posted in  Adventure, Uncategorized
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