PlanetEye

Thursday, May 15th, 2008

Colonia, Uruguay

Brendan

The Global Nomad

Just a few hours’ bus from Montevideo or short speed ferry from Buenos Aires, the Uruguayan UNESCO World Heritage town of Colonia del Sacramento lives in a tranquil time warp. A quiet town of cafés and cobblestone streets, crumbling ramparts and a siesta that seems to encompass most of the day, Colonia is a relaxing foil to the bustle and noise of the two nearby capital cities. A photographer’s dream, the town’s World Heritage status has led to an impeccable restoration and maintenance that stands in stark contrast to the bleak, soot-covered state of Montevideo’s historic quarter.

If travelling is wearing you down a little, take a night or two to recharge in Colonia. Sure, there isn’t much to do, but I can’t think of a better way to relax than by strolling around the ancient traffic-free laneways, stopping for coffees at the many street cafes.

Speed ferries, run by Buquebus, leave from Buenos Aires regularly and take 1 hour ($40; there is also a slower, cheaper option: 3 hours, $30); buses from Montevideo take less than three hours and cost about $10.

www.buquebus.com
www.trescruces.com.uy

• Posted in  City Review
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Friday, May 9th, 2008

Iguassu Falls!

Brendan

The Global Nomad

Not much to say about Iguassu (or Iguaçu) other than go if you can.

There isn’t much to recommend the cities on any side of the triple border between Brazil, Arentina and Paraguay, except that they are close to one of the greatest falls in the world.

My only advice is to make sure you have at least 2 full days so as to have time to spend a day on each side of the falls–the Brazilian side offers the best overalll panoramic view, while the Argentinian side is much more intimate, with lots of little smaller falls, coves, etc, and more jungle to walk through.

• Posted in  Adventure, City Review, Nature
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Tuesday, May 6th, 2008

Paraty, world heritage town and source of excellent fire water

Brendan

The Global Nomad

The impeccably restored colonial town of Paraty (pah-rah-chee), several hours’ drive south of Rio, is well worth a few days’ visit. The end of the Royal Road that carried the riches of Brazil’s mines to the coast, Paraty was stuck in a kind of time warp until only recently, owing to the fact that the modern coastal highway bypassed the town.

Today it is a tasteful colonial (and UNESCO World Heritage) town in the vein of Antigua, Guatemala or San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, attracting mostly an artistic community and tourists. I swear Paraty has more ateliers per capita than any place on the planet.

Paraty is a mellow, subdued town, and there isn’t a whole lot of night life outside of Saturday night at the disco. However there are a ton of great restaurants (most with live music), a participatory cooking school-cum-restaurant, a well-respected puppet theatre (no, that is not a tongue in cheek joke), and some really charming hotels and B&Bs in restored colonial buildings. A river runs along one side of the town and the cobblestone streets closest to the sea flood at high tide, making it picturesque—a photographer’s dream. As long as it isn’t raining. Add some great shopping (so my girlfriend said) and you have a great recipe for a romantic 3-day getaway.

Paraty is well-known for two other things: booze, and booze cruises. Some of the county’s best cachaça (see last post) is made in the area, and there are stores stocked to ceiling around town with the stuff. The pretty harbour is filled with schooners (although you won’t see many sails) and in the high season they are filled with crowds who come to drink, tan and cruise the area’s pristine coves and shores. Caipirinha anyone?

• Posted in  City Review, Uncategorized
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Thursday, March 20th, 2008

Placencia, Belize

Brendan

The Global Nomad

If you like Caye Caulker, you’ll definitely like Placencia.

Sitting at the end of a long, narrow strip of sand in southern Belize, Placencia is far enough out of the way that it requires an effort to get to. (If you don’t have a ton of time, check out the Flying Belize post, soon to be up after this)

Perhaps this explains why so many people who do make it tend to stick around longer than they expected. Like 10 years longer.

Blessed with beautiful beaches and affordable accommodation, Placencia is a great place to kick back and do sweet f**k all. Aside from the beaches its claim to fame is the narrowest main street in the world: a footpath leading through the sand for the length of the village, originally built for wheelbarrows full of fish. However, if you are looking to leave the hammock (to say, eat) here are some cool things to keep you occupied:

Beer and Mexican-Belizean fusion at the Barefoot Bar. Location, location, location. Barefoot is more than just a name. A beachfront location, quick service and great soft tacos. A popular hangout for the long-timers.

Breakfast at the De-Tatch Café. If your system can handle it, go for the grease-laden fryjacks, then pull up a beach chair and…you know. Also has internet access and wireless.

Karaoke at the Purple Space Monkey. Join the battle—for serious cash (like USD$250!) once a week at this great restaurant. Service isn’t great actually, but they have good food, a row of computers or customers to use, and wireless for those with laptops.

Darts at the Pickled Parrot. One of our favourite spots to have a Belikin or five, the PP is run by two Canadian sisters who cook up some serious comfort food. Once a week they have an impromptu, but vicious, darts tourney.

Do a boat trip. The water is impossibly blue, and chances are good you might run into anything from dolphins to manta rays to nurse sharks. There are several options, but the coolest one is to take a catamaran—you can take your rum punch and go sit in the net between the pontoons between bouts of snorkelling.

Next Wave Sailing
USD$90 gets you a full day, including drinks, lunch and snorkelling gear.
http://www.nextwavesailing.com/

Of course, longer charters are available from several companies—why not take a boat trip for a week?

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Monday, March 17th, 2008

Chillin in Belize V.1: Caye Caulker

Brendan

The Global Nomad

Caye Caulker, Belize

How fast can you go on an island where the only vehicles are golf carts? The biggest event you’ll find on Caye Caulker is watching the sunset every evening from the beach bar at the end of the island.

One great thing about Caye Caulker is its easy access from Belize City. From the main pier regular speedboats leave for Caulker, taking about 45 minutes, about USD$10 each way. Be aware that these are usually open air boats so brig whatever sunscreen you need for the trip or cover up. If you fly it’s a short, beautiful hop.

Once you’re there, you may even choose to go barefoot. The island consists of only a few main streets, only one or two of which you will likely need. Accommodation is reasonable, and there are enough options for restaurants that you aren’t likely to get bored.

Diving, snorkelling and drinking are the main pursuits, with excellent reefs all around and reasonable access to the Blue Hole—a perfectly circular limestone sinkhole 500 feet deep, 300 feet across and 60 miles off the Belize coast—a Mecca for divers.

Oh, and for the record: “Caye” in Belize is pronounced “KEE.” There, I said it.

Caye Caulker Water Taxi Association
www.cayecaulkerwatertaxi.com

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Monday, March 17th, 2008

Barefoot and Belikin - Chillin in Belize

Brendan

The Global Nomad

Busy, busy, busy…why is everyone always trying to make you DO stuff? Sometimes the best thing to do is nothing at all, and some places seem perfectly designed for…well, nothing. Try Being rather than being busy, and you might even see another side of where you are—or of yourself.

Some places become famous for the sole reason that they are so laid back that people tend to go…and forget to leave. These kinds of places collect their own genre of traveller-expat, one that ranges from escapist to lost to just simply relaxed.

Wherever you fit on this spectrum, the next two entries will focus on places in Belize that are designed for just chilling out.

Hang up your hammock, grab a Belikin beer (or the Belizean favourite—a “Panty Rippa”) and kick back.

Panty Rippa
1 oz. coconut rum
1 oz grapefruit juice

Stir. Drink. Repeat.

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Wednesday, February 20th, 2008

Dominical, Costa Rica

Brendan

The Global Nomad

So my new favourite town in Costa Rica is Dominical, about halfway between Manuel Antonio/Quepos and the Osa Peninsula. It has killer surfing—but so do many places in Costa Rica. The reason I like it so much is more about atmosphere—there is a palpable sense of civic pride, the town is walkable, there’s a good balance of restaurants, bars and stuff to do… the beach is long and beautiful – and uncrowded. Best of all, there is a complete absence of the brutal attitude that seems standard issue in places like Tamarindo. Maybe it’s because these people have had to make more of an effort to get here (2 or 3 hours on an as-yet bumpy dirt road from Quepos).

One of my favourite finds: Poco a Poco café. Laid back in the extreme, it’s a great place for breakfast that stretches into the middle of the day. Sit, chat, read, or bring a laptop and poach the signal from the internet café next door

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