PlanetEye

Travel Beyond Words

Archive for May, 2008

Monday, May 12th, 2008

Destination: Uruguay

Brendan
The Global Nomad

Montevideo street

Beaches, beaches, beaches…and beef. With 500km of beach on three sides and an interior packed with cattle farms, sometimes it seems these are Uruguay’s only offerings. Sandwiched between Brazil and Argentina, tiny, progressive Uruguay has acted as more than just a physical buffer between the two South American behemoths. Dominated by sophisticated Montevideo, home to half the population, Uruguay represents a symbolic compromise: the best of both countries, with the sum larger than the parts. Today Uruguay’s fortunes—and prices—are chained to its two giant neighbours, which is good news for the traveller given the recent economic woes of both.

A short hop from Buenos Aires, the premier beach town of Punta del Este draws Argentina’s glitterati each summer for a seemingly endless paparazzi beach party. It may be full of tourists, but they’re all beautiful, and at least they’re all from Argentina.

Uruguay map

Saturday, May 10th, 2008

Iguassu - the video

Brendan
The Global Nomad

check it out.

Friday, May 9th, 2008

Iguassu Falls!

Brendan
The Global Nomad

One small piece of Iguassu falls

Not much to say about Iguassu (or Iguaçu) other than go if you can.Iguassu

There isn’t much to recommend the cities on any side of the triple border between Brazil, Arentina and Paraguay, except that they are close to one of the greatest falls in the world.

My only advice is to make sure you have at least 2 full days so as to have time to spend a day on each side of the falls–the Brazilian side offers the best overalll panoramic view, while the Argentinian side is much more intimate, with lots of little smaller falls, coves, etc, and more jungle to walk through.

 

Iguassu

Tuesday, May 6th, 2008

Paraty, world heritage town and source of excellent fire water

Brendan
The Global Nomad

Paraty taxi
The impeccably restored colonial town of Paraty (pah-rah-chee), several hours’ drive south of Rio, is well worth a few days’ visit. The end of the Royal Road that carried the riches of Brazil’s mines to the coast, Paraty was stuck in a kind of time warp until only recently, owing to the fact that the modern coastal highway bypassed the town.Rua de Fogo

Today it is a tasteful colonial (and UNESCO World Heritage) town in the vein of Antigua, Guatemala or San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, attracting mostly an artistic community and tourists. I swear Paraty has more ateliers per capita than any place on the planet.

Paraty is a mellow, subdued town, and there isn’t a whole lot of night life outside of Saturday night at the disco. However there are a ton of great restaurants (most with live music), a participatory cooking school-cum-restaurant, a well-respected puppet theatre (no, that is not a tongue in cheek joke), and some really charming hotels and B&Bs in restored colonial buildings. A river runs along one side of the town and the cobblestone streets closest to the sea flood at high tide, making it picturesque—a photographer’s dream. As long as it isn’t raining. Add some great shopping (so my girlfriend said) and you have a great recipe for a romantic 3-day getaway.

Paraty is well-known for two other things: booze, and booze cruises. Some of the county’s best cachaça (see last post) is made in the area, and there are stores stocked to ceiling around town with the stuff. The pretty harbour is filled with schooners (although you won’t see many sails) and in the high season they are filled with crowds who come to drink, tan and cruise the area’s pristine coves and shores. Caipirinha anyone?

Paraty parking

 

Friday, May 2nd, 2008

Caipirinhas and Cachaça, vol. 2

Brendan
The Global Nomad

Cachaca store, Paraty

Like cane liquor around the world, Brazil’s cachaça comes in all strengths and qualities, depending on the goals and skill of the distiller.

In my extensive research I have identified three main varieties:

1) Fine crafted, barrel-aged to a mellow smoothness. A pleasure to drink, high-grade cachaça comes in beautiful bottles and packaging, and each has its own unique character like a single malt scotch or high-grade tequila. Drink neat. This was the kind my house guest and his drunk friends quaffed back one night without realising they couldn’t just nip down to the liquor store to replace the bottle.

2) Nice, drinkable and reasonably smooth. Your everyday cachaça (if that’s your style). Typically these are best mixed, especially in a Caipirinha. (see earlier post)

3) OH GOD IT BURNS!! Best saved as a backup fuel for running the engine of your fishing boat, or say, removing unwanted skin.

I recommend either 1 or 2. Oh, and for the record, although they are similar, rum is made from sugar cane molasses, whereas cachaça is made from pure sugar cane juice, among other subtle differences.

cachaca distillerycachaca casks

About

Subscribe

Subscribe by Email

Categories

Archives