PlanetEye

Tuesday, February 26th, 2008

Destination: Belize

Brendan

The Global Nomad

One of Central America’s anomalies, Belize feels like a piece of the Caribbean grafted to the mainland.

The only English speaking country in Central America, Belize’s food, music and culture have much more in common with its island neighbours than its Latin ones. That having been said, it has inherited an interesting mix of influences from its former British colonial overseers, its Latin neighbours and its varied native elements. Not overly cheap and short on ‘wow’ elements, some have asked “why Belize?” Aside from the fact that it is English-speaking (alone enough for the Xenoglossophobe…look that one up), my personal answer to that question is:

Diving
The entire length of Belize enjoys its own length of the second-largest barrier reef in the world, one that stretches from Mexico to Honduras. Divers and snorkelers come in droves for the clear water, abundant sea life and great visibility. There are a ton of affordable dive operators along the whole length of the country.

Caving
As much of the country has limestone under the surface, a massive cave system lies hidden ready for the spelunking. Tubing, caving, rappelling, etc all are great options for everyone from the afternoon warrior to the intrepid.

Birding
Killer birds. No really, I swear, they are really cool. Belize will make a birder out of anyone, with biodiversity and flashy species that put most of the world to shame.

Mayan Ruins
More about that to come.

Hot Sauce
Ok so this is my personal addition! I am obsessive about hot sauce, and Belize tops my very elite list of hot sauce capitals of the world. Two worlds: Marie Sharp’s.

• Posted in  Destination Overview
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Saturday, February 23rd, 2008

Eating Like Local In… Costa Rica, Vol. 3

Brendan

The Global Nomad

The GlobalNomad’s top things to eat (that you might never try) in Costa Rica:

horchata. (or-CHA-ta) If you go to a Soda (see Dispatch #1) you may see two big liquid containers, one white and milky, the other a deep, watery red. Depending on how local you are it could be two jugs or two of those big slushy dispensers. The white one is horchata, a delicious, milky, sweet, rice-based drink, usually with a touch of cinnamon. I dream about this stuff….

Rosa de Jamaica. (ha-MY-ka) The Red one is Rosa de Jamaica, sometimes just “Jamaica,” a drink made from hibiscus flowers. It’s refreshing and tart, like cranberry juice, and supposed to be good for your memory

ceviche. (suh-VEE-chay) This one almost doesn’t need to be said, but some travellers are afraid of it because it’s technically raw seafood. Unfortunately, they’re missing out on possibly the best thing to eat in the region. Raw fish or seafood is marinated in lime juice so it ‘cooks,’ then mixed with lots of fresh cilantro, onions, peppers and whatever the chef likes. Lots of countries do ceviche well, but my favourite is the Costa Rican variety

yucca. (YOU-ka) aka cassava or manioc. A starchy root vegetable, it’s great as both chips (better and crunchier than potato chips) and fried like French fries—they are boiled first then fried. Dry unless you dip it in mayo! Delicious, but definitely unhealthy

churros. (make sure to roll your rrrrr) Speaking of unhealthy, Churros are a pan-latin thing and common in Spain as well. The latin answer to a doughnut, churros are just long, straight sticks of fresh fried dough, rolled in sugar. Sometimes cinnamon is added, or they are stuffed with chocolate, or…

dulce de leche. There are different names for this depending on where you are in Latin America (e.g. cajeta or manjar) but it’s all essentially the same: milk with so much sugar added that it makes a brown, caramel-like paste. Sold in buckets in any market, great in desserts. My girlfriend decided she loved me when I introduced her to it

anona. Also going by different names and variations (e.g. chirimoya), the fresh fruit of the custard apple tree is something you need to try. Messy and juicy, with big black seeds you don’t eat, only try to eat it where you would be ok eating pineapple—with lots of water around.

• Posted in  Eating
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Wednesday, February 20th, 2008

Dominical, Costa Rica

Brendan

The Global Nomad

So my new favourite town in Costa Rica is Dominical, about halfway between Manuel Antonio/Quepos and the Osa Peninsula. It has killer surfing—but so do many places in Costa Rica. The reason I like it so much is more about atmosphere—there is a palpable sense of civic pride, the town is walkable, there’s a good balance of restaurants, bars and stuff to do… the beach is long and beautiful – and uncrowded. Best of all, there is a complete absence of the brutal attitude that seems standard issue in places like Tamarindo. Maybe it’s because these people have had to make more of an effort to get here (2 or 3 hours on an as-yet bumpy dirt road from Quepos).

One of my favourite finds: Poco a Poco café. Laid back in the extreme, it’s a great place for breakfast that stretches into the middle of the day. Sit, chat, read, or bring a laptop and poach the signal from the internet café next door

• Posted in  City Review
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Sunday, February 17th, 2008

Surf’s Up, Hombre

Brendan

The Global Nomad

Let me be clear about one thing: I am not a surfer. Surfers are a special breed—impossibly tanned, blessed with an uncanny ability to function with their shorts pulled half down, and sporting physiques that are proof that spending time in a gym isn’t always the best way to get six pack abs and killer shoulders.

The west coast of Costa Rica has been surfing central since long before the resorts and canopy tours arrived, so what can be more Costa Rican than learning how to surf? Whether it’s because you want the chiselled abs or just because, well, that’s what you do here, there are a zillion dudes up and down the coast who are happy to help you get a jump on your first wave.

If you’ve never surfed before but think lessons are for wusses, a piece of advice: swallow the 35 bucks and get a lesson. You’ll still be in a world of pain, but with a little luck and coordination it will only last a week instead of a month.

Here are a few great places to learn to surf on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica.

Tamarindo, Guanacaste. With a busy nightlife and more tattoos per capita than anywhere outside a biker gang, Tamarindo isn’t a place to find your own beach (small boats can take you out to those once you’re ready). It gets less unspoiled by the year, but there are ATMs, lots of people to party with, great restaurants and a beautiful beach, even if you do have to share it. Plus, from Nov to Feb giant leatherback turtles nest on nearby Playa Grande.

Malpais/Santa Teresa, Nicoya Peninsula. Malpais is a hardcore surfer’s mecca, while the next beach up, Santa Teresa, has more chilled waves that are great for beginners. Just be ready to surf…and not much else. Nightlife is limited and the population is very spread out over the long beaches, so this one is best if you bring your own vehicle, preferably a 4X4. Farther south around the peninsula, Montezuma has even smaller waves where beginners will be even happier.

Jaco. Crass, rife with hookers, drugs, and college kids on break. If that’s your thing, hey, fill yer boots. (Oh, and it’s pronounced “ ha-KO.”) The next beach south, Playa Hermosa (“beautiful”), earned its name. Long, straight and beautiful, without most of the commercial development that keeps some people away from Jaco.

Dominical. My favourite. South of Manuel Antonio and before the Osa Peninsula, Dominical is just far enough out of the way that many stop before they get this far. A surprise to me, Dominical has a fun, laid-back community, great beaches, and it’s all walkable.

Lastly: remember, surfers never just shake hands. Remember: slide and punch. You’ll know what I mean….

Photo credit for surfer: Latitude 10

• Posted in  Adventure
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Friday, February 15th, 2008

Living Large in….Costa Rica

Brendan

The Global Nomad

Travelling doesn’t always have to be about chicken buses and dingy hostels. Sometimes you just need to live large; and no, I don’t just mean a swanky all-inclusive. If you’ve got a little cash to drop and want to see what Costa Rica has to offer the style-conscious luxury traveller with an adventurous streak, check out these places. Every one is unique, and each one comes with an environmental/sustainability streak—after all, this is Costa Rica.

Tabacon Grand Spa Thermal Resort
A carbon neutral spa resort; if you think you know it but haven’t been in the last year, try again—it’s gotten much better.

Sitting at the base of active Arenal Volcano, the resort revolves around hot spring rivers that flow from the volcano and through the property.
A few km outside La Fortuna, at the foot of Arenal Volcano
http://www.tabacon.com/

Latitude10°
Discreet (no signs, restaurant not open to public), intimate (6 bungalows), exclusive (several celebrities have been guests), top-notch food (a private French chef) and incredibly personal service.
The architecture is fantastic, with almost no walls, and open-air bathrooms—you can pee with the monkeys. Right on the beach. Pictures don’t even do it justice. Rabidly enviro.
Santa Teresa, Nicoya Peninsula. Just north of Malpais
http://latitude10resort.com/
**N.B. As of February 08, Latitude 10 was sold to nearby Florblanca resort. Some changes are to be expected

Rancho Pacifico
In the middle of rainforest at 2000ft, with stunning view over Pacific. Monkeys and toucans wake you up every morning. The intimate spa has no walls on the view side, and all food, chemicals and spa products are organic. Like staying at a wealthy friend’s private retreat. I find their website hard to navigate but a cool place.
Above Uvita, which is about 20 mins south of Dominical, between Manuel Antonio and the Osa Peninsula.
http://www.ranchopacifico2.com/

Arenas del Mar
Ultra enviro hotel, brand new (Dec 2007). More affordable than some of the above (about 220/night for standard suite) but a very well run, unique property. Best: the rooms, with awesome beds; you sleep so close above the shore it sounds like the waves are crashing at the foot of your bed.
On the short road with all the hotels between Quepos and Manuel Antonio Park
http://www.arenasdelmar.com/

• Posted in  Sleeping
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Wednesday, February 13th, 2008

Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica - Back Door Monkeys

Brendan

The Global Nomad

Manuel Antonio is Costa Rica’s second most popular park (the first is a volcano).

Right on the coast, it boasts some of the area’s best beaches, protected offshore islands home to thousands of birds, and so many monkeys and sloth you’re virtually guaranteed to run into them. All of which has made the park so popular that a few years ago authorities decided to upgrade facilities, moving the entrance to a more central spot.

To get in, you ford a small estuary (rivulet at low tide), and although numbers are restricted, the place can be jammed on weekends in the high season (Nov-March). At peak times you actually have to wait in line unless you arrive first thing in the morning. The park is closed Mondays, closes fairly early (4 pm at writing), and costs 10 bucks a person.

But there is a back door of sorts to Manuel Antonio—which is good to know for several reasons. For one, if you happen to arrive at 3pm and just want to zip in and have a swim or look for monkeys, 10 dollars can be a bit steep. I am in no way condoning this, but in case you were wondering, the back gate is rarely monitored and you can easily walk around it.

Personally, I use the old entrance (which is what it was—the original entrance, now a service road) for two things: a more interesting way to leave the park than a long backtrack, and the best place to spot monkeys and other wildlife away from the crowds.

When we were last there I dragged my girlfriend this way and found ourselves quickly surrounded by Titi (Squirrel) monkeys, possibly the cutest animals alive; the only other people that came to join us were brought by local park guides.

To get to the old entrance from outside the park, take the last left turn before the park as you come into Manuel Antonio (at Marlin restaurant) and follow the road inland, staying right at the fork. There is a path around the right side of the gate.

If you come in the main entrance and just want some monkey action, walk to the far end of the popular protected beach and follow the service road up the hill for five minutes. At the crossroads, go straight to follow a trail to a great lookout or turn left and follow the road which eventually brings you to the old gate.

• Posted in  Nature
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Monday, February 11th, 2008

Monte Verde, Costa Rica - Of Bugs and Butterflies

Brendan

The Global Nomad

Before you begin to roll your eyes, let me assure you: butterflies are cool. Even if you don’t think you’ll find them cool—and I assure you, I didn’t—this place also has tarantulas, scorpions and seriously crazy-ass bugs you’ve never seen. For those of you who now think there’s no way in hell you’re going anywhere I’m talking about, give me a chance.

The Monteverde Butterfly Garden has always been one of my biggest surprises—I wanted to think it wasn’t cool, but every time I went, I found myself fascinated. So much so that on this, possibly my fifteenth visit to Monteverde, I chose to go back again, just to show my girlfriend Melanie how cool it was.

Plus, the staff—all student volunteers—really, really love bugs. By the end, so will you. I’ve seen these people turn even the most cynical tourists into a spellbound audience. Hell, hey even got my arachnophobic girlfriend to hold a tarantula. But I digress.
Started by a teacher, the Garden is eminently educational, and has something for everyone. With a little luck, you should even be able to release a newly-emerged butterfly on its very first flight. And if there were ever a more enthusiastic bunch of guides, I haven’t met them.

Monteverde Butterfly Farm (Jardin de las Mariposas)
Take the road from Santa Elena town to Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. At the corner where you pass Hotel Heliconia, veer right off the main road, past the ambulance station on your right and follow the signs.

Go mid-morning, as by late afternoon the butterflies tend to be less active and harder to see. Oh, and make sure to leave a tip for the guides (there is a shared tip box in the gift shop).

• Posted in  Nature
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Thursday, February 7th, 2008

Skip the Potholes - Monteverde/Montezuma, Costa Rica

Brendan

The Global Nomad

A few years ago, when a Costa Rican presidential candidate made reference to his past success at halving the number of potholes in the country (in itself an indication of how much of an issue the road conditions are), the opposition retorted: “of course there are half as many potholes—every two small ones grew into one big one.”Alternative transport in Costa Rica makes even more sense once you’ve had some experience of the roads. If you can take a shortcut, do it.

Here are two great shortcuts between popular spots:

Arenal to Monteverde
The roads to the area around the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve are notorious for being some of the worst in the country. Many travellers combine it with a visit to the area around La Fortuna, at the base of Arenal Volcano. With a pesky active volcano and massive forest reserve in the way, the options for getting between the two are all pretty dire and involve lost teeth and sore bums. An excellent way to avoid the bumpy 3 ½ hour drive is to go by horseback. The views are excellent, it’s more adventurous than a bus and the only pollution comes from the back end of your horse. Plus, it’s eminently Costa Rican—this is cowboy country, don’t ya know. [See caveat re. route below.]
Montezuma to Jacó and beyond
At the tip of the Nicoya peninsula on the northwest coast is the ex-hippie hangout of Montezuma (nickname Montefuma; fumar = to smoke), a groovy little beach hangout that still has a love-in feel to it. Problem is, if you want to go anywhere south along the coast, you need to take a road northeast…to a ferry…then get to the bus station…to a bus that finally heads south along the Interamerican highway.

Look and a map and it’s obvious: the most sensible route is a straight line—by boat. Speedboats from Montezuma turn what could be a 4-5 hour slog to Jacó into a 1-hour tanning session. Bonus: you may get dolphins joining you for the ride.

There are a few outfits that do the Arenal to Monteverde ride but beware: there have been stories of dangerous routes along steep mountain paths, inferior equipment and horses that are less than…umm, fit.

Particularly if you are a novice rider, consider the lakeside route used by Desafio Adventure Co. which starts with a boat trip across Lake Arenal, and then takes an easy and scenic route that won’t have you fearing for your life. [Note that the ride doesn’t go all the way to Monteverde—at the end there is a pickup and you drive the rest of the way. Trust me, it’s worth it.] www.desafiocostarica.com

Both Zuma Tours and Cocozuma both run a couple of boats a day between Montezuma and Jacó (technically Herradura beach, just north of Jacó) for about $30/person one-way. Both have offices on Montezuma’s main street, on either side of El Sano Banana hotel and restaurant.

• Posted in  Transportation
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Saturday, February 2nd, 2008

Manufacturing Adventure

Brendan

The Global Nomad

As Costa Rica slowly edges towards becoming a victim of its own popularity, and nature becomes gradually more and more packaged for tourist consumption (think Cancun’s Disney-esque shuttle buses to go visit Nature™!) it’s nice to know there’s still plenty of the real thing around. While the idea of a canopy tour (flying from tree to tree high in the forest canopy by means of a zip line and climbing harness) may have started out pretty hard core, today the country is flooded with them. Not that they aren’t tons of fun….

Two more of Costa Rica’s best, Disney-free ways to experience Mother Nature with a serious does of adrenalin are rafting and canyoneering.

With a relatively short trip to either coast from its volcanic spine, Costa Rica’s rivers can be steep and fast. The Pacuare, Reventazon and Sarapiqui rivers are legendary and feature tropical paradise on all sides. In the northwest, the Balsa and Toro rivers have solid class III and IV rapids respectively—enough to get you as wet as you like.

Canyoneering is a combination of scrambling or hiking down a rushing river canyon, and abseiling down the spots where the canyon turns into a waterfall. It’s beautiful, intense and certainly earns you bragging rights at the bar that night.

There are plenty of good rafting operators depending on where you are; For rivers in the east including the Pacuare, try Rios Tropicales. In the Arenal Volcano/La Fortuna area the Desafio Adventure Company were pioneers in the area, having been around for 15 years, running both canyoneering trips and rafting on the Balsa and Toro rivers. I’ve done both with them and both were awesome. Highly recommended.

Links:
www.riostropicales.com
www.desafiocostarica.com

• Posted in  Adventure
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